Wasps, Hornets and Bees

We can safely eliminate wasp nests inside walls or the ground, attached to eaves or hanging in a treeAnd if you just have too many wasps in the backyard we can set up a line of wasp traps to greatly reduce the population bothering you and your family

Treatment and Control

Treatment for wasps and hornets is generally the same regardless of the type of wasp or hornet. The only exception is honeybees where a beekeeper may be able to remove the nest or swarm. In all cases, the nest must be located for proper treatment.  A nest located in a wall or in the ground can usually be identified by observing wasps flying in and out of a hole or a crack. Never plug or seal up this hole before a treatment! The wasps will chew their way out and often into your living space.

  • Treatment usually consists of treating the nest or entry point with a liquid or dust insecticide and/or removing the nest, if possible.
  • To reduce local populations of wasps in your yard or patio area, a non-toxic trapping program can be initiated. We have a great wasp trap available -it can be used while camping too!
  • In our experience, using the "fake" wasp nests or paper bags do not work. In fact, we have seen wasps nesting inside one of the "fake" nests!!

For nest elimination or to purchase wasp traps for your yard, This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or call us at 604-463-0007.

While wasps, hornets and bees are all beneficial pollinators, predators or scavengers, they can be irritating, dangerous and even life-threatening when nesting in and around your home. Not all wasps and bees are aggressive but those that are may need to be dealt with quickly. All yellowjackets and wasps have smooth stingers which means an individual wasp can sting many times. The pain and allergic reactions associated with the sting is from the venom that is injected during the sting. 

For wasps and yellowjackets, each colony or nest only survives one season - they do not live in or use nests from year to year. Only a newly mated queen will survive over the winter, taking shelter in a protected area (under bark, in leaf litter, soil and in structures). The queen will emerge in the spring and select a new nesting site and start a small paper nest. The queen will do all of the egg laying and foraging for the first month or so. After that, the newly born workers take over the foraging and care of the larvae while the queen remains in the nest and strictly lays eggs.

Types of local wasps, hornets and bees:

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Yellowjackets actually refers to a group of wasps in the Vespula or Dolichovespula genera. But when most people refer to a yellowjacket, they are thinking of the Western or German yellowjacket which are small, about 10 mm in length, bright yellow and black. 

Bald-faced hornets (Dolichovespula maculata) are relatively large, black and have white to yellowish markings on the front of their heads.  This type of hornet generally builds a paper covered nest in trees and bushes but nests can also be attached to buildings. It is not unusual for a nest to be the size of a basketball by the end of the summer.

Mud daubers (Sceliphron caementarium) are generally considered non-aggessive and will not generally sting unless they are directly handled or threatened. This wasp is easy to identify both by it's appearance and it's nesting behavior - they have very long legs and a long thin "waist", they are solitary and build small mud nests stuck to rafters, under decks or on the side of a building. 

Paper wasps (Polistes spp.) is a group of wasps which are large, upto 25mm in length with a distinct thin waist and long legs. Most are brown or darker, with large patches of yellow or red.  Their paper nests hang like an open umbrella from a pedicel or stalk with the cells visible from below and no paper covering.  They are usually in protected areas, such as under eaves, in attics, or under tree branches or vines. While each nest may have more than a hundred individuals, they tend to be non-aggressive.

Bees are important pollinators and should only be eliminated if necessary.The stinger of a bee is barbed, so when forced to defend themselves, the stinger becomes stuck and the bee is unable to pull it out. The bee will tear itself as it tries to get free, eventually dying from the injury and leaving the stinger behind with the venom sack still pumping venom.

For honeybees, we strongly recommend they be collected by a beekeeper. We would be happy to refer one if the problem is confirmed to be honey bees. The slow, larger, fuzzier bumble bees will nest in the ground, in piles of vegetation and in unused compost bins, and in insulation. Bumble bees tend to be active in early spring and are often not seen in the hot summer months.

To read more about the types of bees and wasps we have here in Metro Vancouver, click here.

Call or This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it us now for guaranteed wasp control!

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